Historical notes and description
about the characteristic costume of Montecelio: "The Vunnella"
Already in the early nineteenth century Bartolomeo Pinelli depicted in various engravings women and children of this place, afterwards called “Monticelli”. Later on, until the first decades of the twentieth century, the same artist performed other engravings and watercolors more or less taking into consideration the particularities of the costume.
The costume, as well as many subsequent ones depicted by Pinelli, reflected those dressed normally by people every day. It can be assimilated, with some minor differences, to that of other neighboring towns (Tivoli , Palombara , Castelli Romani ect.). This costume, even if limited in few garments, was maintained until a few decades ago.
Today, with the disappearance of the oldest women generation, it is no longer found in the country.
On the contrary, a very different destiny had the rich and elaborate costumes that can be seen today during the parade, which accompanies the statue of Saint Michael; only in the "structure" it looks like to the other one, but there are differences in materials, decorations, embroideries and functions. In fact, originally, It was part of the most precious prerogative of notable local families (e.g. Fontana, Stazi, Miconi, Tuzi, etc.) and was used as a wedding garment and in occasions of major events and important ceremonies too (in 1930 a small delegation wearing the typical costume attended the Prince Umberto of Savoy’s wedding).
So, while the costumes used every day were disappearing around the years 1950, the “vunnelle” were jealously preserved and, where possible, enhanced.
The number of participants in the parade has been gradually increasing over the years. Currently there are about 250 costumes in Montecelio whom hundred are original and the others are recently "realized". For her beauty, the costume also won the great Director Vittorio De Sica to the point in which it was shown in a movie scene "Anna Brooklyn" (Brooklyn) where the protagonist was Gina Lollobrigida.
designed by Bartolomeo Pinelli
'Costumes of Monticelli'
Representation at the Prince Umberto of Savoy’s wedding
Description of the costume components
Fazzolittu 'n capu (Headscarf): rectangle made by cotton that is starched and folded several times. It is placed on the head and falls back until you reach the "fazzolittu 'n collu". It is also embroidered in gold and edged with wide lace. It is fixed on the node flake the “cartonella” via a pin embellished with a pearl. Fazzolittu 'n collu (Shawl on the shoulders): garment triangular, light cotton, starched before being worn, it is placed on the shoulders. It is maybe the most beautiful piece of the costume with its precious embroideries and laces that adorn it. It is attached to the waist with a pin in the back and the laces are tucked into the bust, leaving out the part of them. Vustu (the bust) : with tissue in bright colors, serves to tighten the waist and support the breasts, laced in the back by a string that regulates the opening. It is very rigid and hard; it is reinforced inside with small wood slats, while outside is covered with damask and gold trimmings. Cartonella: the “cartonella” is a small circle of cardboard covered with the same material (rippled) of "centa", which form at the top a floccule; all around is adorned with multi-colored flowers; collects inside the hair that are attached by a long pin in watermark, depicting a flower. This pin is called "'maula" (flower of mauve). The “cartonella” should be placed with the bottom touching on the neck, at the base of hair. Centa (belt): The "centa" is a silk strip that has the function to fill the gap between the vunnella (skirt) and and the bust, and is fixed to the front with a gold pin. Maula: The long silver filigree pin, reproducing a mauve flower with leaves and buds. Puzzini (cuffs): cuffs attached to the sleeves of the '' u corpittu "(bodice) are also richly embroidered in gold thread. Corpittu (bodice): white shirt (red in winter) similar to a rich very low-cut shirt with embroidery and lace at the neck and wrists. It is generally satin or "grenadine". Zinale or Parannanzi (Smock) : apron fixed to the waist. It has the function to enrich the front of vunnella and is worn curling it a little to the front, not extending over the hips. It can be made by very light cotton, embroidered in gold, or of tulle embroidered with traditional motifs. Sottanili: Three white cotton garment, laced hem and worn over one another under the skirt. Curduale: short garment very heavy which serves to widen the skirt (vunnella). Vunnella :skirt with wide pleats tied at the waist with a string. In ancient was made by silk or damask
Ornaments
The Vunnella ornaments usually consist of:
- Gold chain twisted repeatedly twisting neck;
- Chain with a pendant (pandantiffe):it reproduces agricultural ancient symbols of fertility;
- Long earrings with gold or diamond and pearls rose;
- Three rows of natural ancient pearls;
- Various rings.
Normally they are excluded bracelets of any kind.
Vunnella mesh fixed
In addition to "gold Vunnella " there is also the "Vunnella mesh fixed". Both garments were worn by the old women to get married. Those wealthy married with the dress embroidered in gold, while the less wealthy wearing those made by mesh fixed. The embroidery mesh Vunnella consists of fixed knots, weaves and stitches on a white tulle. The embroidery designs are ancient symbols of rural culture: branches of flowers, birds, bells, etc.. Both types are very valuable and passed down from generation to generation. They may be old or faithfully reproduced by the hands of skilled women of our country. The embroidery requires extreme patience, great view and plenty of time.
